Noob- a term used toward newer modelers. While this term simply states the modelers time into the hobby it can easily be used as an insult toward them or others works.
GunPla- a Japanese term for Gundam Model kits. Gun - Gundam, Pla - Plastic.
PlaMo- basically for Plastic Model.
GunPla- a Japanese term for Gundam Model kits. Gun - Gundam, Pla - Plastic.
PlaMo- basically for Plastic Model.
OOB- is a term used for "Out-Of-Box" modeling in which the model is built exactly as the instructions intended. Not really any mod that involve adding or redesigning the kit. Mods that are allowed in OOB kits are, filing of seam lines and paint.
FFA- this mean "Future-Floor-Acrylic" it refers to a hardwood floor sealer product thatis comonly used as a TopCoat to finish or seal your model. It is ready to AB straight out of the bottle with no thinning needed and sprays on Glossy.
Top Coat- this refers to the final coat you apply to your model. They prevent damaging the paint or weathering, and can be used to seal pastel shading and decals. Top coats vary from Gloss (shiney) to Flat/Matt (dull.) Mr. Clear and FFA are commonly used.
WIP- the term used for "Work-In-Progress." A work in progress is a series of posts that show YOUR progress on a kit you a working on. Often a good resource for techniques and examples. A Wip must have pictures!
AB- this is short for "Air Brush." This devise is is very commonly used in modeling to apply paint/top coats to models. Used for the BEST finishes. Using an AB allows smoother finishes and open up many techniques and possibilities for modelers.
Water Slides- this refer to a type of Decal that you soak in water to activate the glue and release the decal off the backing paper. Then using tweezers you position it on to the model surface. Then when all the water is off the decal the glue resticks to the surface. Water Slides almost always require a Top Coat to seal them in place and are easier applied over a "Gloss" Top Coat. Water Slides are often refered to as the best decals you can use by many modelers.
Dry Transfer- another type of decals included in many of todays newer kits such as BANDAI's Master Grade Line of Gundam Models. They are applied by rubbing the decal "off" onto another surface or in this case the model.
Mecha- a term used for japaneese or forign robots. They simply rule!
IP Kits- Ip refers to to "Injection-Plastic-Kits." This refers to the way a kit is made inwhich the mold is injected with plastic. The most common type of kit. Kits that are usually injection plastic vary from Tayiama car kits, to BANDAI's own Gundam kits. While newer kits are snap together all older/advanced kits require glue. Now days with color injection technology as seen in the recent BANDAI kits they can inject color into the peices making less work for the laziest modelers.
Runner/Tree- this refers to the plastic, web like desgin that holds the parts together in sections.
Gate- a gate is a tiny part where the Tree or Runner contacts the actual part or piece of the model. Often smaller than the rest of the Tree/Runner this is where you cut or remove the part.
Spur- this is what a piece of the Tree or Runner is called.
Pla- this term means plastic and is oftewn seen in "pla-plate" which means plastic plate and "pla-putty" which means plastic putty.
HJ- this refers to a Japanees modeling Magazine that features Gundam, Aircraft, Figure, Military and Automotive models.
Resin Kits- this refers to model kits, statues or conversion kits made with resin.
Conversion kit- a kit which requires another kit to complete. Most oftenly made of resin.
Scratch-build- a modelers project inwhich he make or sculpts the entire thing prom scratch using no existing parts.
Kitbash- when a modeler uses multiple kits and combines them as they were not intended for a new creation.
Plated Kit- when a kit is plated it is coated in a chrome like film with a mirror like finish. Problems with this are you can't touch up any seam lines, putty or any mistakes. some modelers strip the platting using various chemicals such as 409.
Clear Cast Kit- a resin kit in which the resin used is clear. To finish modelers need to sand and polish and use a Gloss Clear Coat to achieve a glass like shiny and transparency. Applying a Flat or Dull top Coat will cause the kit to have a frosted appearance.
Minus Molds- after market detailing parts that are circular with a line through the middle. Used to replace or make a model more detailed.
Crimp Beads- small jewelry beads used in necklace and such that modelers have been using to detail-up their models. Commonly used in Gundam models to add detail or replace the Vulcan on the Gundam's head. Made of metals, a wide variety as shapes, sizes and colors are available.
Clear Acrylic Rods- clear solid rods available in many thicknesses and lengths. Often used to detail-up models and in making stands to display and support your finished models.
Photo Etched Parts- metal after market parts. Very thin and come on a runner/tree. Used to replace parts and detail-up a kit for added realism. Usually made of copper, brass or stainless steel.
Ejector Pin Mark- circular marks on parts created during the molding process. Ejector pins are rods that are flush with the female side of the mold, and after the molding is complete, they are pushed out of the face of the mold to pop the part tree out. As a mold wears with age, these can become more pronounced.
Knit line- as molten plastic is pumped into the mold plate through numerous injector ports, it cools and starts to develop a surface texture based upon the direction it is moving. Eventually, the liquid plastic from all injection ports of the mold meet in the middle. A knit line is formed between the shots of plastic due to their different surface textures/cooling. Knit lines generally do not affect the surface of the part other than how light bounces off the part, so they are only an issue if you do not paint your kit.
Draft angle- the angle away from the mold plane of a part surface. Think of the parts tree as a flat plate. Since 2-part steel molds used for IP kits can not have undercuts, details on the tree/runner perpendicular to the flat plat side of the tree are crisp, while those on the edge are softer and shallower. The greater the draft angle on a apart, the weaker the detail will be.
POS- distinction for a kit that provides an unexpected challenge to the modeler, usually given shortly after the initial opening of the box.
RTV- RTV means Room Temperature Vulcanizing rubber which is used for mold making. It hardens or "vulcanizes" very quickly without needing to be heated and/or cooled. You can even buy it in a food grade version in case you want to cast a figure kit or mech out of chocolate for that special gift for the modeler who has everything.
Pre-Shading- airbrush shading technique whereby the area is totally covered in the darker shade of the color, with the lighter shade then applied on top.
Post-Shading- airbrush shading technique whereby the area is totally covered in the lighter shade of the color, with the darker shade then applied on top.
GK/GKs (Garage Kits)- Resin kits are often called GKs because there is a very large number of them made by (mostly Japaneses) enthusiasts
Clear Cast Kit- a resin kit in which the resin used is clear. To finish modelers need to sand and polish and use a Gloss Clear Coat to achieve a glass like shiny and transparency. Applying a Flat or Dull top Coat will cause the kit to have a frosted appearance.
Minus Molds- after market detailing parts that are circular with a line through the middle. Used to replace or make a model more detailed.
Crimp Beads- small jewelry beads used in necklace and such that modelers have been using to detail-up their models. Commonly used in Gundam models to add detail or replace the Vulcan on the Gundam's head. Made of metals, a wide variety as shapes, sizes and colors are available.
Clear Acrylic Rods- clear solid rods available in many thicknesses and lengths. Often used to detail-up models and in making stands to display and support your finished models.
Photo Etched Parts- metal after market parts. Very thin and come on a runner/tree. Used to replace parts and detail-up a kit for added realism. Usually made of copper, brass or stainless steel.
Ejector Pin Mark- circular marks on parts created during the molding process. Ejector pins are rods that are flush with the female side of the mold, and after the molding is complete, they are pushed out of the face of the mold to pop the part tree out. As a mold wears with age, these can become more pronounced.
Knit line- as molten plastic is pumped into the mold plate through numerous injector ports, it cools and starts to develop a surface texture based upon the direction it is moving. Eventually, the liquid plastic from all injection ports of the mold meet in the middle. A knit line is formed between the shots of plastic due to their different surface textures/cooling. Knit lines generally do not affect the surface of the part other than how light bounces off the part, so they are only an issue if you do not paint your kit.
Draft angle- the angle away from the mold plane of a part surface. Think of the parts tree as a flat plate. Since 2-part steel molds used for IP kits can not have undercuts, details on the tree/runner perpendicular to the flat plat side of the tree are crisp, while those on the edge are softer and shallower. The greater the draft angle on a apart, the weaker the detail will be.
POS- distinction for a kit that provides an unexpected challenge to the modeler, usually given shortly after the initial opening of the box.
RTV- RTV means Room Temperature Vulcanizing rubber which is used for mold making. It hardens or "vulcanizes" very quickly without needing to be heated and/or cooled. You can even buy it in a food grade version in case you want to cast a figure kit or mech out of chocolate for that special gift for the modeler who has everything.
Pre-Shading- airbrush shading technique whereby the area is totally covered in the darker shade of the color, with the lighter shade then applied on top.
Post-Shading- airbrush shading technique whereby the area is totally covered in the lighter shade of the color, with the darker shade then applied on top.
GK/GKs (Garage Kits)- Resin kits are often called GKs because there is a very large number of them made by (mostly Japaneses) enthusiasts
WTS - is a term for "Want To Sell". One of a terms that mostly been used in a selling/buying threads.
Usually the thread's starter wants to sell his/her item.
WTB - is a term for "Want To Buy". Same as "WTS" but the thread's starter wants to buy (sort of request) on
what he/she want to buy.
WTT - is a term for "Want To Trade". Same as above (WTS/WTB), the thread's starter wants (offer) to trade
their items for the items that they want to trade with.
LTD - Limited Edition
RET - Retired
SCR - Scratch
S/O - Sold Out
FOC - Free Of Charge
FB - Feedback
FC - Fine Condition
FOB - Freight On Board (usually means something has shipped)
G - Good condition
Usually the thread's starter wants to sell his/her item.
WTB - is a term for "Want To Buy". Same as "WTS" but the thread's starter wants to buy (sort of request) on
what he/she want to buy.
WTT - is a term for "Want To Trade". Same as above (WTS/WTB), the thread's starter wants (offer) to trade
their items for the items that they want to trade with.
LTD - Limited Edition
RET - Retired
SCR - Scratch
S/O - Sold Out
FOC - Free Of Charge
FB - Feedback
FC - Fine Condition
FOB - Freight On Board (usually means something has shipped)
G - Good condition
MNT - mint or in perfect condition (a subjective term that doesn't necessarily mean new)
MIB - mint in box
MISB - mint in sealed box
MIJ - made in Japan
MIMB - mint in mint box
MIMP - mint in mint package
MIP - mint in package
MNB - mint no box
MOC - mint on card
MOMC - mint on mint card
MONMC - mint on near mint card
MWBT - mint with both tags
MWMT - mint with mint tags
MIB - mint in box
MISB - mint in sealed box
MIJ - made in Japan
MIMB - mint in mint box
MIMP - mint in mint package
MIP - mint in package
MNB - mint no box
MOC - mint on card
MOMC - mint on mint card
MONMC - mint on near mint card
MWBT - mint with both tags
MWMT - mint with mint tags
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